26 BRIX
Walla Walla, Washington

It can be said of very few restaurants that they are worth the trip. 26 Brix is one of them

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The name itself—a vintner’s term for the ideal sugar content of some red varietals at harvest—captures the increasing sophistication of the Walla Walla wine scene that permeates much of downtown, and also gives a nod to the warm brick interior of the historic building.
For a restaurant at the center of a wine region of growing importance, 26 Brix offers a surprisingly few choices of wine-by-the-glass. Fortunately, all are good and more are available by the bottle. As for making a selection from this formidable list, you’re on your own. Wine orders are taken by the wait staff but poured by the sommelier. This unfortunate disconnect in the otherwise impeccable service deprives the diner of the special knowledge and recommendations that might be offered by the sommelier.

But no matter. Enjoy a glass of wine and take a few minutes to study the descriptions on the simple one page menu. At first glance the generic-sounding dishes seem at odds with the crisply starched linens and polished silver. Take the “12 oz. Rib-eye Steak”. Pretty ordinary. But read on. “. . . ragout of bulgur wheat, smoked bacon and olives with red wine sauce”. Much better. Other descriptions are just the opposite. Could the “Salt roasted potatoes with chives, bacon and crème fraîche” really be a reconstructed version of the classic baked potato with sour cream and chives? We may never know.

We started by sampling one of their weekly cheese selections. The sheep’s milk Idiazabel cheese from Spain shared a plate with sweet lemon and orange marmalades to compliment its buttery texture and smoky flavor. This was followed by a summer salad of garden-fresh peas and white asparagus teamed with earthy morels and roasted beets, all brought to life with a light lemon-truffle vinaigrette and arranged in a painterly composition of purple, green and white in the well of a large frosted glass platter. A true visual and sensual delight.

The entrees managed to exceed the high expectations set by the first course. Moist and flavorful Copper River salmon was served over a chipotle pepper and potato gratin with warm red wine vinaigrette. Equally fresh Alaskan halibut with a seared crust leaned against aligot mashed potatoes with a citrus butter sauce. A light touch highlighted the field fresh vegetables that accompanied the fish. Each of these presentations was prepared with a mastery of cooking skill, resulting in a dish that transcended the mere combination of ingredients.

Dessert offerings on the menu, which include several old standbys, were eclipsed by a nightly special. The memory of this dessert still lingers on the palette. Served in a wide bowl, a shallow pool of dark, rich cherry soup surrounded an island of tart lime sorbet balanced on a Chinese spoon. This sweet-and-sour combination was the exclamation point on the end of an exceptional dinner experience.
As of this writing 26 Brix is open Sunday and Monday for dinner, making dining decisions for these usually vacant evenings a no-brainer. A comfortable bar occupies the space to one side of the spacious main room and a smaller private dining room is also available. –Will Foster

26 Brix, 207 West Main Street, Walla Walla, Washington
526-4075