HIGGINS

Portland, Oregon

I’ve often grumbled about the lack of a suitable afternoon counterpart for the ever-popular mid-morning brunch. “Dunch” just doesn’t have the same ring to it, and that dead period between lunch and dinner is largely a culinary wasteland of fast food and vending machines.

Not so in Portland. Happily there’s Higgins. This neighborhood restaurant located on the corner of Broadway and SW Jefferson, just blocks from the Portland State University campus, offers lunch all afternoon in the bar behind their main dining room. Dark paneling and dim lighting lend a comfortable charm to the space that quickly puts one at ease. But don’t pick this spot for a romantic little tête-à-tête. The noise level, aggravated by the tin ceiling, increases steadily after lunch. By late afternoon an intimate conversation requires an operatic bellow to be heard over the din of the after-work crowd.

The bistro menu offers several variations on the classics, such as an open-faced pastrami sandwich and a spicy hazelnut salad, along with appetizers and some more adventuresome dishes. The artichoke panzanaella salad consists of an artful stack of mixed greens interspersed with warm, crispy panzanaella, all coated with a fruity, complex vinaigrette. Another selection from their small plates menu features lightly grilled fresh asparagus scattered on top of roasted garlic sformato—similar to a smooth textured sweet potato bread—drizzled with a rich pan reduction. Crusty artisan breads offered with the meal, such as whole wheat with walnuts or a chewy olive loaf, round out an ideal midday meal.
In spite of an extensive wine list, there are few wines available by the glass, so wine drinkers: bring company. Beer drinkers will fair better with double-sided catalog of both micro and foreign brews.

Desert choices included a tempting selection of cookies, sorbets and bread puddings. Try the chocolate custard: a beguiling combination of rich chocolate mouse wrapped in a pastry shell and topped with tart orange sorbet. Or, for something a bit more subtle, the rice pudding is a nice balance of flavors, spectacularly presented with an ultra thin, full moon vanilla wafer setting into a landscape of whipped cream. –Will Foster

Higgins, 1239 SW Broadway, Portland, Oregon
503-222-9070